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Archive for July, 2007

30 July 2007

            I am quickly learning that in Uganda, I am, first and foremost, recognized as a “muzungu.” My white skin carries with it the status of “guest,” and therefore I receive special treatment. I have already experienced this treatment in a number of venues. At our first day at work last week, Maital and I were invited by the workers of the Bushikori Christian Centre to attend the funeral of an elderly widow; the grandson whom she cares for is a BCC sponsored child. After lunch, we walked down the road towards the sound of joyous singing. The funeral was outside a small house with a tin roof that hung off the front of the structure. In front of the house, people were surrounding the body, which was encased in a painted wooden box with small glass spaces to see the late woman’s face.

            Upon arrival, Maital and I, along with Mary, from BCC, who brought us to the funeral, were immediately escorted right next to the casket. I was very embarrassed. First of all, I had never met the deceased woman. But, also, I did not understand a word of the eulogies since they were all given in the local language. I realized that I was moving past people whose tears and singing indicated that they probably had a connection to the woman and the ceremony.

Many people spoke in Lugisu on chordless microphones that picked up most of what the people were saying. I later learned that they spoke about the woman’s life, family, religious convictions, and BCC, the organization that helped care for her and her grandson. To my surprise, the woman from BCC that escorted us gave one of the speeches and spoke about our NGO.

In the middle of the speeches and singing, it began raining harder and harder. Hung on pieces of wood, a large orange tarp covered the body and extended about fifteen feet in each direction. As the rain got heavier, the people around us pushed in closer and closer to avoid downpour. There were small holes in the tarp and people started moving around a bit so as not to be rained on. As the rain pushed through, some of the more distinguished looking individuals, many of whom had spoken, moved under the small portion of the roof extending in front of the house. Suddenly, Maital, Mary and I were being pulled towards them. For the remainder of the time I was there, I watched the funeral from a dry vantage point as the Ugandans in front of me (including numerous older looking individuals) looked at me while being rained on. We did not feel like we could have resisted this treatment in the middle of the ceremony but felt rather uncomfortable by the special treatment. We wonder if all “guests” would be treated like this or just muzungu guests.

Everywhere I go, Ugandans are constantly looking at me. It is both embarrassing and intriguing. I am so surprised how shocked they look to see me. I feel, though, that there are basically two reactions I see when people notice a Muzungu walking near them: either they are shocked or they see dollar signs.

On Friday morning, as I was walking by myself, I passed a group of 7-8 year old boys who noticed me from afar. I heard talking, laughing, and then loud, overdramatic weeping. This weeping turned into pleas for money. They all tried to hold my hand as I quickly passed, and as soon as I had passed, they started laughing. Were they mocking me? Had they been given money by whites in the past? Were they mocking the situation of whites having money and traveling to the poor villages of Africa?

Only the day before, I had another experience of standing out like a soar thumb. I was traveling as a photographer for BCC. We went to a number of schools to take pictures of the children sponsored by BCC in order to send to their sponsors. As I stepped out of the car and made my way toward a group of children, I felt the children staring at me and immediately found myself surrounded by about fifty of them. (One of the pictures that we posted captures this mob-like scene.) As the BCC worker went to a different part of the school to find one of the sponsored children, I stood and gazed at the group of children ages 5 through 13 just staring at me without speaking. As a teacher, I know what it feels like to be looked at by a number of people. But this was staring like I have never experienced. The children watched my every move as I looked from one wide-eyed child to the next. I greeted them in Lugisu, and they all responded at the same time like it had been rehearsed. I must have stood there for twenty minutes before the BCC worker came back with the child I had to photograph. During that time, I tried to fill the silence in any way possible. My experience teaching taught me that in order to keep a student interested, a teacher has to engage the student. However, here this was not the case. The children would have continued to look at me for the full twenty minutes even if I had not moved or spoken. Breaking the silence was completely for my own sanity. I asked them questions about Ugandan history, geography, science, math, religion, and anything else I thought they might know. I also asked a few of them to perform songs for me. It was quite an experience!

Near the end of the twenty minutes, a younger child standing directly in front of me, staring at me with his head tilted up, put his hand up, I thought to ask a question, but instead, he removed one of my chest hairs that was sticking out of the top of my shirt. There was silence, immediately followed by uproarious laughter. I was a little embarrassed to say the least. Fifty children laughing about your chest hair is not exactly a comfortable experience. But by that point, I would have expected anything!

The children ran after the car as I drove away; it seemed to me like I had connected with some of them. I can only hope that the next time I come to the school, the children won’t see my skin color, as much as they will see a new friend.

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Keeping Busy…

 

30 July 2007

I can’t believe that it has only been two weeks since leaving England! The second Shabbat at the Abayudaya was much different than the first. There were only 12 guests this time as opposed to 30, and we ate Shabbat dinner at Chairman Israel’s house. During dinner, Israel mentioned that he went to Disney Land during his trip to California for a conference. He told us that he loved the rollercoasters and showed us the pictures that he purchased of himself riding down a steep drop on the ride. He looked like he had just been punched in the stomach. But he also seemed to like it! I can’t imagine what it felt like to see Disney Land- maybe like they were really visiting the happiest place on earth! He even commented on the cleanliness of the place considering the number of people there everyday. (Remember they don’t have garbage collection here.)

            During Shabbat, I began to take part in the ritual life of the community. On Friday night, Aaron Kintu Moses, the acting rabbi of the community and Rabbi Geshom’s older brother, asked one of us to lead the birkat hamazon (blessing after meals) since the Abayudaya are used to the short version and would like to learn the longer version. In addition to volunteering to lead birkat hamazon, I also read two aliyot on Saturday morning, and led havdalah on Saturday evening. After havdalah Aaron told me he needs my help in the community and asked me to teach full time. I had to tell him that I would only be able to do it with more funding but that I am working on it. He also told me that he looked forward to me helping in any way I could, especially during the High Holy Days. So, in September, I will be leading Yom Kippur Services for the Abayudaya. As you can imagine, I am very excited about this opportunity.

            For the past month, a young volunteer named David, who is a student at the University of Maryland, taught Hebrew at the Hadassah Primary School and started the Hebrew club, which meets on Sundays. During his month stay, David designed a basic-Hebrew curriculum that can be followed by the students’ next Hebrew teacher. Aaron told me how happy he was about this project. From his reaction, I recognized how important Hebrew education is for the community and how welcome I would be if I dedicated my time to teaching in the Jewish community.

            Maital and I have been enjoying our stay at Anne Wanendeya’s house in a part of Mbale called Senior Quarters, which was the section of the town formerly inhabited by the colonists when the British controlled Uganda. Here, we are living like Muzungus, which brings with it certain negative, or at least ambivalent, feelings, but also a great amount of comfort. Fazi, the cook and house-keeper, creates great, tasty meals for everyone who stays here. (Maital wrote a longer post about the struggles and questions we have regarding this relationship, especially the aspect of giving our dirty laundry to someone else to do.) We were going to visit the village where Maital lived two summers ago, but I came down with a stomach bug and didn’t feel up to going.

            One of the great things about living at Anne’s besides the running (heated) water, electricity, good food, internet, and privacy is living in the same compound with Levart, a Kenyan who moved to Uganda to work as the clinic officer at BCC. He is a lot of fun to hang out with. We especially enjoy his hysterical comments about Uganda from a foreigner’s (but African’s) perspective. For example, when he greets people, he makes fun of the Ugandan way of greeting people, “You are all welcome,” by saying, “You are al(l)most welcome,” which while welcoming everyone also implies that you are not really welcome. Levart is a very wise and down to earth person, and Maital and I are so happy to have him around!

            As Maital works on her library project, I am working with Anne’s son, Samson, to come up with a project that is beneficial for Bushikori and also sustainable. After a week of emails and research, we decided that I would work with the website manager in Australia to help her design a website that really captures the great projects happening at BCC and the people there that are making it happen. I will be writing stories, taking pictures, and helping the website manager work on the layout of the site. It seems like a fun and exciting project!

            Maital and I are really enjoying the responses we are receiving from all our readers. Thank you for reading! It is really enjoyable to write, knowing that people will be reading about our experiences and commenting! Webale nyo! (Luganda for thank you very much!)

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      July 27, 2007

        Adam and I are quickly adjusting to the work environment. Everyone is extremely welcoming and inclusive. In fact, yesterday they even took Adam as they traveled to a number of local schools to take pictures of some of the sponsored children (an experience that I am sure he will describe in one of his upcoming posts). As for me, I have been having many meetings about the library…

            On Monday, our very first day of work, the chairman of the executive board and my host mom from last time, now also a member of the executive board, came in to meet with Adam and me. (The director, Anne, with whom we are staying is actually in Tanzania right now.) In the first place, I was honored that they had called this meeting and all the more surprised and honored, when they shared with me all of the research that they had done about libraries. The chairman gave us a brief history of libraries in Uganda, including their decentralization of the library system to the local governments in the 1980’s under the Museveni regime. Then the municipality built a library in a rather central location in town.* However, due to the high cost of rent and the outbidding of Barclay’s Bank, the library has now moved to a more hidden location. Currently, the library resides in the back of the first floor of an office building. Instead of having all of the books in a large, spacious room, books are divided (mostly by topic) into four rooms. In the room with the computers and television, a flag hangs noting something about a partnership with the United States. Online, I learned a little bit about “reading corners” that the United States embassy helps fund around the world. Hopefully, I will learn more about this in my meeting with the librarian this afternoon.

With bookshelves around the edges of the room, students squeeze around one or two tables in the middle of the room. Being exam time, when Adam and I visited, we found between four and eight students in each room. Many of the books do not seem to be in great condition and from opening them up and finding stamps from libraries in the US, we realized that most of them are second-hand books. I will also ask the librarian about the numbers of students (and other people) using the library, the rate of circulation, the most popular books, and much more.

Back to the meeting… the chairman then discussed with us a variety of options regarding library location and structure. We brainstormed about the pros and cons of each possibility as well as about the variety of programs possible in such libraries/resource centers. In fact, the big question that I have spent the rest of the week considering is where to put the library. I hope I am not boring you with all of these library details, but we are really struggling with creating a sustainable model within what I have come to realize is a very modest, and quite possibly limiting, budget. On the one hand, we could build the library in town. Although there already exists the Mbale public library, about which I still need to learn more, there definitely exists a need for additional educational resources for students, especially in a more central location and in a more conducive space. However, renting property means constantly being susceptible to someone else coming and being able to pay a higher rent, which happened to the other library and seemingly a number of other institutions. Buying property in town seems completely unreasonable, which leaves us with the possibility of negotiating for space with one of the high schools or local churches. However, this might limit the users. The other major concern is the monthly cost of upkeep in town, which could possibly be part of the negotiation with an existing institution. Anyway, the benefits are huge. All of the secondary school students in town would have easy access to not only the books but to a quiet work environment. BCC could hold regular remedial classes for struggling students and a larger number of teachers and students would be able to visit the library regularly.

On the other hand, aside from the immense cost of building a structure (around $15,000), the cost of upkeep would be much lower in the village since the library would be located on the BCC compound. There would already be security and cleaning. Some of the library staff could also be affiliated with other departments. Additionally, other departments, like the clinic and the primary school, could make use of the facility either by using the books or by running classes or seminars for the local community. In the village, the library could offer adult literacy classes or lectures on agriculture and health. But, the secondary school students would have more limited access to the texts. As the system exists right now, the field worker who visits them brings them the books that they request, or they borrow the books when they come to BCC for either medical treatment or some other type of care. In order to accommodate the large number of students studying similar subjects in different places, we would probably need more copies of the same texts. Hopefully, I will be meeting with Steven, who has been coordinating the library for the past two years, at the beginning of next week and try to assess the feasibility of this system. Also, if the BCC staff are all in the village, they can better oversea the library.

Another possibility is to rent while we try to figure out some of these details. But we don’t want to begin in town and establish a readership there and then move to the village… well, there are many considerations and I will try to keep you posted and we sort through some of them. Oh, and I shouldn’t forget to mention that the library will also have a number of what is called around here, “income generating” programs to help cover the monthly costs. Hopefully, the library will charge a fee for photocopying, secretarial services, printing, and possibly even for computer use (though ideally research and internet use would be free of charge). While using the library facilities will be free and open to everyone, in order to borrow books, we will probably have to charge a small membership fee. From my research, I have learned that institutions who charge a small fee to borrow, the community tends to take better care of the books, since they are invested in them.

I hope that I have not bored you with all of these details. I do have to admit that I am a bit concerned about funding, since I did not really budget for building a structure. I will be applying for some other grants over the next few weeks and am beginning to think about some fundraising strategies. If you know of any grants or have fundraising ideas, please be in touch. I think that the comments section might be a good place to brainstorm together about raising the funds, but also feel free to email me at maital.baldachin@gmail.com.

 

*The terms “town” and “village” might be a bit confusing. “Town” refers to the more city part of Mbale district, also known as Mbale town. Within town there are a number of different sections. We live in “senior quarters,” the old colonial area. But there is also “Indian quarters” on the other side of town, where many of the sponsored children stay in hostels. Everything outside of “town” is called “the village.” As you might have guessed, “the village” is more rural. But even areas in the village vary greatly. Homes or institutions along the main roads out of town have electricity, running water, and, like BCC, some even have internet. However, off the main road most homes do not have any of these luxuries. So, the BCC compound is located 5 miles outside of Mbale town in “the village.”

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Laundry Saga

July 27, 2007

After over one hour of bending over a bathtub scrubbing, wringing, soaking, wringing, and hanging, I can tell you that doing laundry here is not easy. No matter what, we will be doing our own undergarments, but since the Swedish girls staying at Anne’s house with us (at least for the next few weeks) do their own laundry, we figured we would give it a shot. But, it is not easy! And after the clothes dry, they still have to be collected, ironed, and folded… another ordeal. So, we are faced with a dilemma. Do we do our laundry (as long as we have the time) or do we ask Fazilla, the wonderful young woman who also cooks our meals, boils our water, washes our sheets and towels, irons our clothing, and keeps the house, to wash our clothes? Ok, so we are paying to stay here, which includes all of these luxuries, and, in fact, everyone here, especially those people who work, has someone helping them with their home, whether it is a sister, niece, or cousin. Regardless of the cultural context, I still find the relationship challenging in many ways.

I think that Francesca Marciano in Rules of the Wild, a book about ex-pats in Kenya, rather articulately captures an aspect of this struggle: “whites, within the boundaries of their well-guarded homes, had kept their colonial attitudes intact towards the Africans. Newcomers proved very good at picking them up immediately, as if they had been used to having African servants all their lives, whereas back in Europe they probably couldn’t even afford a cleaning lady two hours a week…” (100). The rest of the passage is actually much harsher and hopefully incorrect. But, as Marciano points out this relationship is complicated and has raised many questions for us. Is it different for me to ask Fazilla to wash my clothes because I am white, even though Anne doesn’t do her own laundry (at least, I don’t think she does)? Or is this a cultural difference? Or a practical one, because if we had to cook our own meals, wash our clothes, and do all the other chores here, we wouldn’t have time to work?

Well, this reminds me of a question I had even at Princeton regarding the fact that we ate at dining halls or eating clubs and usually didn’t have to clean our bathrooms. Should we have been doing our own chores? I remember after eating breakfast with Irit at President Tilghman’s home, where waiters served us food that had been prepared by cooks, Irit and I discussed the fact that President Tilghman could not do the many things she does without help (or at least have welcomed students into her home). So, I guess things are complicated, but I really wonder how much skin color and history have to do with being uncomfortable with the system.

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Babies, babies, babies…

July 27, 2007

I am sitting down to write this post as our dirty laundry soaks in three buckets of water. In one hour, we will take each article of clothing and scrub it, rinse it, and then hang it outside to dry. Today will be our first time hand-washing our clothing… we will let you know how it goes.

            As I prepared to come to Uganda, I received a number of emails that friends of mine had given birth to babies. I was a little bit surprised, because I had not been informed that they were pregnant. Likewise, when talking about my supervisor from my last time in Uganda, Dan Wambi, who was “introduced” (the traditional first stage of the marriage ceremony) to his wife in November, friends told me that he was now a father. I soon learned that people don’t really announce pregnancy; the announcement comes at the birth of the child, which I guess makes a lot of sense in a society with such high rates of infant mortality and complications with pregnancy. So, on Sunday, as we went to visit some of my old friends, we also had the opportunity to visit their new children. We first went to Dan Wambi’s home. He could not meet us in town, since only about a month ago, he had been in a motorcycle accident and badly injured his ankle. (It is healing and he was even back at work a bit this week.) Upon arrival, we were greeted first by his wife, Isabelle, and a baby, whom I later learned was his three-day-old daughter!! We had a great time at his home sharing stories of the past two years. We then went with my close friend Paul to visit his sister, Sylvia, and her three-week-old son, Shadrock. We have one more visit to make, on Sunday, to see Cate’s new baby boy. Cate was really the one who made my stay in the village last time as comfortable as it was. She welcomed me home everyday, introduced me to everything “African,” and saw me off in the mornings.

            Well, I guess all of these new babies should not have surprised me, since everybody has been asking Adam and I when we will be having our first child. Dan explained it to us quite frankly: in Uganda, a couple is expected to have a child in their first year of marriage, or else suspicion arises of the woman’s infertility. He told us that after the first child, the couple can wait some time before the second, but within one year, this first should have already arrived… well, I guess we missed that mark, considering our one year anniversary is quickly approaching!!

           

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Muzunjew!!

 

July 24, 2007

 

After meeting with Josephine, Maital and I took a cab to an upscale hotel to meet the bus that the Abayudaya were driving to Nabugoye Hill in Mbale where we spent Shabbat. While waiting for Rabbi Gershom and the other leaders of the community to finish their meeting, a worker at the hotel, who introduced himself as Brian, told us that he wanted to be Jewish. He told us that Christian theology didn’t make sense and that he really wanted to convert. He then asked us how to find the Jewish community and we told him about Nabugoye Hill. He also wanted to know what books we could offer him that would tell him about Judaism?!? It was kind of an awkward conversation, so we soon asked Brian to direct us to the restroom. This was the beginning of being recognized by Ugandans as being Jewish. Additionally, wherever we go, people address our “whiteness.” As we walk down the street or drive in a car anywhere in Uganda, many Ugandan children point at us and yell out “Muzungu!” which means, “white person.” Since I where my kippa around most of the time, I am realizing that I will be recognized also as a Jew (when I am not mistaken for a Muslim). Whenever I here people say Muzungu, I will also be thinking, “Muzunjew!”

            Anyway, when the leaders of the Abayudaya finished their meeting, we managed to pack the van with ten people and a lot of luggage. We had the privilege of riding the four and a half hour trip with visitors to the community from the Joint Distribution Committee and from an organization in California that they refer to as “the Institute.” It was very interesting to hear from them about all the current projects on Nabugoye Hill.

            During the many hour drive along the bumpy roads, we pulled over twice to do some shopping. This in itself was a cultural experience! The firs time we stopped, close to twenty people rushed over to the car to try and sell us cooked plantains and roasted pieces of chicken on sticks. They surrounded the entire van and even forcibly opened the windows so they could ask us if we wanted to bye their delicious snacks. I shocked everyone when I tried out my Luganda. “Nedda. Webale.” “No thanks.” The vendor responded with something I did not understand and I responded, “Sitegedde,” meaning “I don’t understand.” The vendor smiled and the people in the van laughed. (All my practice in the car to and from school has really paid off!!) In the end we bought delicious roasted plantains.

The next stop was to buy fish. This time men with fish on ropes ran up to the car and after much negotiation, we bought a bunch. I was worried they were going to put them on my lap, but instead, they tied them around the windshield wipers and the fish hung in front of our van for the rest of the ride home. (By the way, we ate the fish later that evening.)

            We spent a wonderful Shabbat with the Abayudaya. We met a bunch of our friends there who happened to be staying with the Abayudaya that very weekend!! One friend, Chaim, was at our wedding and is an old friend of Maital’s. He and his two friends have been backpacking through East Africa and slept in a tent outside the main synagogue. They have shared with us great stories about their travels and offered recommendations of places we might want to go (especially with friends and family who come to visit… any takers?!?!) As they say in Uganda, “you are most welcome.” In addition, the American Jewish World Service group was there as well. They have been volunteering in a nearby village building a piggery. (We actually spent 9 be’av with them and even got to see their work… more on this later).

The Shabbat was pretty crowded, and it was pretty difficult to meet members of the community and over twenty visitors at dinner when the electricity went out and only came back a few hours later. (This is a common occurrence all over Africa- one that I am slowly getting used to.)

            Kabbalat Shabbat was beautiful. We sang and danced around the amud (the central podium) near the front of the synagogue. Some of the tunes I recognized from the cds, and some I did not. Even so, I tried to make up the words because the tunes were so catchy and fun to harmonize with! There was a lot of Luganda in the service, and whenever anyone spoke it was first in English and then translated to Luganda. This was one example of how visitor-centered the community is. After Kiddush on Saturday, Aaron Kintu Moses, the principal of the Hadassah Primary School, and Chairman Israel, the president of the congregation, spent half an hour reading off a list of all the visitors and giving them personal greetings.

A cantor from California, Mark Stein, led Maariv on Friday night and Shacharit and Musaf on Saturday. It was bizarre to hear American tunes in this synagogue. But, I was not surprised to be one of the only people singing along to some of his tunes.

            Maital and I were called up for a joint aliyah at which point Gershom announced our marriage last summer. He then began singing Siman tov umazal tov and we danced around the amud with a number of the community members. After lunch, about thirty people came to a Torah discussion, which was led my Rabbi Gershom. He began by explaining that revelation is ongoing, and therefore, everyone should ask questions so that we can continue to uncover God’s message to us. Based on people’s questions, we ended up discussing various topics from Parashat D’varim, including the question of whether God’s punishment of the spies was just. Many people participated, and it seemed like the community members were very interested in the discussion. After discussing the parashah, Gershom opened the discussion up to other topics. I was very surprised when someone asked about the pasuk in Bereishit 5:24 about Enoch walking with God and then disappearance. We discussed a variety of different interpretation for what it could mean that Enoch walked with God. Gershom told me later that he is used to such questions, since the community members care deeply for Torah and really want to understand every detail. Thus it seems to me that the members of the Abayudaya would welcome and appreciate my volunteering to teach Torah in the community.

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first library visit

July 22, 2007

Well, there is so much to write. I am worried that if I think about writing all of the stories that I have in mind to share, I will be paralyzed from even beginning. So, I will do what I can… and hopefully, will capture some of what has been happening over these very busy five days!

Wednesday evening after we finally landed in Mbale, drove in a packed car to our friend Jennifer’s house (I even had to travel the whole time with the spare tire in my lap), dropped our stuff, rode on the back of motorbikes around Kampala, and changed money, we had dinner with members of the Abayudaya who happened to be in Kampala having a number of meetings. (I think Adam has written about these adventures).

            So, onto library related travels. On Thursday, the day after we landed, we met Prof. Kate Parry who founded a community library in Kitengesa, Uganda a few years ago. There have been a few articles written about the library, which I read while I was researching libraries in Uganda, Africa, and the developing world. Anyway, I met the authors of the articles before I left the States. They were extremely helpful in terms of sharing with me their findings and offering advice based on their research. They also introduced me to Prof. Parry, who lives in Uganda when she is not teaching at Hunter College. During our meeting she shared with me her vision for the Uganda Community Library Association (UgCLA), a new organization that she is starting to serve as an umbrella for community libraries. She hopes that this organization will serve as a network for those running the libraries and also be able to offer training and support for librarians. The model seems very promising. Well, we also talked about the library in Mbale and what our relationship might be with the organization. She seemed very excited about the prospect of a library offering resources to secondary school students, teachers, and school administrators as well as the community at large.

            After lunch, we traveled with Prof. Parry to visit a community library in Kabubbu district right outside of Kampala. This library is very well funded! It resides in a beautiful building with paintings of animals, like chimpanzees, and a map of Africa. The librarians run a few programs for adult community members to teach them how to read based on a local curriculum focused around agriculture and health. On one wall they hang summaries of the news in simpler language than the newspapers making news stories accessible to the community. Also, they offer reading glasses for borrowing to patrons while they read in the library. In addition to all of these wonderful programs and aspects, the library has a wide collection of donated books. When asked about the use of the books and the general interest in reading, the librarian with whom we met emphasized the need for local books. He mentioned that often the donated books are not relevant to the community and they would likely be more interested in locally published books. Actually, Prof. Parry confirmed this from her experience. She told us that some of the most popular books in her library, which is made up of mostly locally bought books, are the ones about African folktales, the baby books which they can touch soft or rough things or that make noise, health and agriculture texts, and books about soccer. We also talked about the advantages and disadvantages of charging an entrance fee, different modes of record keeping, and other library related programs. Additionally, Prof. Parry and the local librarian shared inspirational stories related to the affect that the library had on students. That’s enough about libraries for now… I am really excited about my meeting tomorrow (Monday) with the administration at BCC when we will hopefully begin planning the library in Mbale.

            Since I am writing this after a wonderful dinner, I will teach you what one says in Lugisu to thank someone for cooking a delicious meal: thank you for cooking, wanyala khutekha (kh pronounced as h).

 

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